A Tale of City Bihar Sharif

Discovery of Biharsharif or Oodantpuri.
A Tale of City Bihar Sharif.Travel.Dr Madhup Raman.

collage : Vidisha.

A Tale of the City,Bihar Sharif. I live in Biharsharif since 1965. This is my abode where I spent my childhood. Whether it is a good or bad city, accept not to accept this is my habitate. My memories are scattered everywhere, in the lanes or lonely places like Pir Pahadi.

By hundred times I visited these places in and around and gathered different sorts of  information for you by clicking cameras, studied so many books and extracted the theme of your interest.

Imagine Bihar Sharif would have importantly dotted its appearance over the world map for its historicity and world heritage site, for the travelers, scholars and visitors, it would have been a great place of interest if there had been a saved remnant of an ancient university Udantpuri. If it would not have been destroyed by a fanatic Muslim invader somewhat. Even since my childhood I witnessed

the earthed teracotta remains and bricks of the Oodantpuri while I passed through the Garh Par locality . 

Biharsharif in bygone ages An ancient city that has been an abode of many sufis, saints and Buddhist monks therefore its name is extracted from two words 'Vihar' and 'Sharif' later referred as Biharsharif. Since very ancient time Bihar Sharif is a district headquarter town of Nalanda has been a historic city that witnesses the communal harmony of different communities and peoples since very ancient time. 

Since Gupta Period. 

Bihar Sharif firstly identifies its first appearance under the ages of Gupta Period (320-672AD). It might have been a developing and prosperous town of the Gupta Period. Many archaeological evidences of building remains of Gupta period have been found around Garhpar locality. Still a mound can be noticed around this locality that has earthed many historic facts lying deep inside. The impressive image of Lord Vishnu, incarnation of Varah Awtar along with the deities of Lord Shiva, Ganesh and Goddess Laxmi confirm us  about the ancient Hindu culture existing that time.
Capital City during the Palas : During the time of Palas it was made the capital city of eighteen rulers. As we get information about the Palas of Bengal from the account of an Arab merchant named Suleiman and Tibetan chronicles. The Palas ruled between 700 AD – 1100 AD for nearly four hundred years over Bengal and Bihar. 

Gopal (750 AD – 770 AD) the founder of the Palas was elected by the people followed by two other important rulers, Dharmpala (770 AD – 810 AD) and Devapala (810 AD -850AD).
Oodantpuri an ancient univesity : The fact shows Dharmpala, the greatest ruler of the Pala dynasty (founded) set up a university for the Buddhist education which was known as Vikramshila Vihar at Bhagalpur. The Palas were indeed the great patrons of education and literature.
After coming to the throne Gopal the founder of The Pala Dynasty built a huge Buddhist Vihar inside the town. Udantpuri was then contemporary to the famous Nalanda University where Buddhist philosophy and logic subjects were taught. Many renowned scholar teachers like Ratnakar, Shanti and Antash received their education before being the teacher. There had been likely a university Udantpuri surrounding with a great deal of Chaityas,Vihars and monasteries was then parallel to the world famous Nalanda University for its utmost  better quality of education. It was a known seat of learning in context of Buddhist culture and philosophy. It traced its name Vihar due to availability of Vihars (residences of monks), Chaityas (temple) and Monasteries (schools) found abundantly since the Pala Dynasty. 

Gopal was the founder of the Pala Dynasty, the facts say that made this town as his habitation and established many Mathas and Vihars around this Vihar that time its name was Udantpuri. It  was then a developed and a progressing town during the region of the Palas. The remains (ruins) of old buildings deities of Shiva Laxami, Ganesh, are still found around the Garhpar locality where now the Nalanda College is situated. 

Destruction by Bakhtiyar Khilaji  As per the evidences in tales and stories usually we read or listen probably Hindu Buddhist culture was destroyed by the Commander in chief of Muhammad Gori, Bakhtiyar Kihilaji around the beginning of the 13th century. He was conquering then the rebellious part of India. Soon Bihar Sharif turned a centre of Islamic culture and adminstration. 

it was the time of Qutb-ud-din Aibak (1206-1210), the first Sultan of Delhi Sultanate was carrying on his master Ghorils programme of conquest. 

Dominance of Islamic Culture : Thus Between (1194-1206), the Turkish forces had occupied most of the Ganga-Yamuna Doab with their swift moves, Aligarh, Kalinagar, Bengal and Bihar came under their control. During the course of conquest Bengal, Bihar was conquered by Bhaktiyar Khalaji who was the next commander-in-chief in Ghoris army. Whenever Bakhtiyar Khilaji invaded,he plundered the towns and cities setting them on fire. In his wild and frequent attack thus, he buried our glorious past in making us deprive  in obtaining complete knowledge of our begone days. Still we can experience a hillock in the town locality that hides many unrevealed stones of past.

Places of interest in and around Bihar Sharif.

Biharsharif has lots of places for the attraction of the tourists and travellers.

Abodes of Sufis : Since 1547 the name of Bihar Sharif existed as it remained the places of interest of many sufis-saints, Ibrahim Baya-Makchdum-ul-Mulkand Hazrat Makhadum Sultan, Saiyyad shah. Ahmad Charampose and Badar-E-  Alam. Bihar Sharif remained once again the capital of the Muslim Governors of Bihar between 13th and 16th centuries. When the city was an active cultural centre and important seat of Islamic (Muslim) thought philosophy and learning
City being the capital : Between13-16 Century the city claimed once again for being the capital of the state for different Muslim rulers. Later on, it had been an important centre of Muslim political, cultural, and religious activities. with famous archaeological facts i.e. tombs. During the Bhakti Movement Bihar Sharif also came under the influence of Sufis, Saints. Many Sufis, Saints believed that love for humanity is love for God. Sufis had practices similar to Hinduism and Buddhism, e.g.-penance, fasting, good deeds and belief in equality among all without any distinction of colour, caste or creed.
Again, an Afghani ruler Sher Shah Suri (1540-1545) appointed a governor and the office at Bihar Sharif became a sub-divisional town during the British Rule. After independence, 

As a district : Nalanda was made a district on 9th Nov.1972 and Bihar Sharif becomes the headquater town of this district. Vindya Prasad remained the first D.M of this district.

Places of interest around Biharsharif.

A.Baba Maniram Akhada.

The Temple and Akhada of Baba Mani Ram attracts the people at the pious place of Bihar Sharif. 

Manibaba Ashram : Collage Vidisha.

The birth place of Baba Maniram was supposed to be at Uttar Pradesh but he selected Bihar Sharif as the Karmbhoomi.  According to the myth there was a great friendship between Baba Maniram and Fakir,Sufi Shaikh Sarfuddin Ahia Maneri. There is an ancient stone in this Akhada which has a narrow hole as the symbol of the blessing of Baba Maniram. It is said that one who could be able to cross the narrow whole bodiely he or she will be blesssed by Mani Ram.Every year on the occasion of Aashad Poornima or Guru Poornima,with a great pomp and show langot is offered on the samadhi of Baba Maniram by the people of both the communities-Hindus and Muslims. This place is the symbol of Hindu-Muslim unity.
B.Mazaar of Hazrat Makhdum Sahib.In the mohalla of Badi Dargah there is a mazaar of  Hazrat Sarfuddin Makhdum–e-Mulk Ahia Maneri alias Mazaar of Makhdum Sahib. Every year on the birth day after  Eid festival the Urs of Hazrat Makhdum Saheb is celebrated with great solemnity.The fair held on this occasion is called “Chirag Mela”. People of both Hindu and Muslim communities do “chadar poshi” on the  mazaar of Makhdum Saheb.

Badi Dargah,Biharsharif : collage Vidisha.

C. Udantpuri Udantpuri had been an important ancient historic site recently being earthed around Garhpar at Bihar Sharif. It was an important seat of learning of Buddhist culture and philosophy.It flourished well during the Pala Dynasty. It is said that Bakhtiyar Khilazi demolished this site. Still we can get some significant archaeological evidences.

Pir Pahadi Ibrahim Baya's Tomb.Biharsharif

D.Pir Pahadi,Ibrahim Baya's Tomb - If we visit  the hill top of Biharsharif  at evening we find the gatherings of nature loving people. They will be found moving here and there. Specially in the evening they visit here to capture the sun setting view behind the hill.

At the hilltop of Hiranya Hill located at Bihar Sharif is the important historic ASI site bears an enchanting scenery. It is made in the Tuglaq style of architecture. He was a renowned sufi saint which is worth-seeing.
E.Sheetal Mata - We the people of Biharsharif have a great faith in Sheetala maa temple is situated in the Maghada village near Biharsharif. Sub urban area always observes the Sheetla Ashtami Mela every year.It is a myth that the bracelet of Maa Sati fell on this place. It is also said that the water offered on the statue of Maa Sheetala has the magical power to cure various kinds of diseases. Apart from this water has been instilled with the power to fulfill the desire of the worshipper. There is a well near the temple out of which the statue of Maa Sheetala was taken out and it is regarded as the in-laws house of Maa Sheetala.
F. Nalanda College -  Once upon a time when we were graduating from Nalanda we heard the honourable President of Indian republic Shri V.V. giri graced the centenary celebration of its serviceful existence in the year 1970. The Government of India has honoured the institution by a commemorative stamp in the memory of this college in the memory of ancient Nalanda University the seat of learning. The Nalanda College was established in 1870 at the remains of Udantpuri. The college existed through the generous donation made by a very noble son of Late Rai Bahadur Edal Singh.

It has a sprawling campus in the heart of the town around the locality of Garhpar. It has a cluster of double storey buildings of different faculties, big campus,an extended playground with an impressive auditorium. It is a matter of immense pleasure for us that when it had completed its century in 1970 and its centenary celebration was inaugurated by the President of India Shree V.V. Giri. And I remembered too  that  there had been a scintillating cultural programme organised by the students of the college.

G. Catholic Church -  Catholic Church as far as the amalgam of different religions is concerned the history tells that Bihar-Sharif is the place of Sufi, Saints and great souls. Bihar-Sharif evidences the friendly relation among other communities. The only catholic church of Bihar-Sharif is situated on its outskirt, Devisarai. If you are in quest of peace harmony and spiritual purification this is right place for you.

The image of Mother Merry is splendid. The surrounding of this church is far away from hustle and bustle, madding crowd of the city and concrete jungles. A mortified soul must get solace here.

Hiranya Parvat,Biharsharif : Photo Dr.Madhup 

H. Hiranya  Parvat  - Hiranya Parvat located in western side of the town. It is a famous picnic spot for the localities popular for its scenic beauty. It has been considerably part of the Himalayas contains medicinal herbs as sanjeevini.
It is said it has the source of seven streams still three streams are found, 'Sun Rise Point', 'Town's View Point', 'Lover's Point','Sun Set Point', 'Lands End  and Clouds End' points are marked points from where we have a wide look over the extension of populated town and landscape of stretched green fields and meadows. At the top we visit the Ibrahim s tomb amidst silence and the philosophical touch.
A stair case with a pakka road leads to the Shiva Mandir located at the highest point.
I. Mamu Bhagena - Common people symbolically told this rock bhegena as Lord Krishna and  mama as Kans. Really it’s a unique man shaped balanced land rock form found at the foothills of Hiryanya Parvat that has been created thrush exogenesis forces in along processed weathering since primitive age. There are two pieces of rocks supposed to be kept over one another.

A beautiful natural park : Hiryanya Parvat Park.

J.Hirany Parvat Children Park -  Recently a beautiful park has been made by the district administration at the Hirany Parvat amidst the nature where we can relax a while with our kids and children and breathe the fresh air here. I always used to go there any enjoy the entry of Bhul Bhullaiya.

K.Subhas Park -  It is an only park adjacent to DM residence where we can enjoy a variety of amusement activities as walking, boating  in a small lake and taking a cup of tea in the cafeteria that welcomes each local to visit at different occasions,new year. There is a small but pretty garden attracts the passersby through its greenery and different kinds of flower.

L. Kargil Park - A small park away from the bustling town adjacent to Kargil Bus Stand was built in the memory of victory over Kargil agression in 1999.

Kargil Park it’s another place of interest at Rajgir here in Bihar-Sharif nearby NH 31.The park was opened by then Defence Minister Jorge Frnandis on 17th July 2003 in the memory of great soul of Kargil. A tank used in Indo-Chinese war was kept here as the symbol of great victory over Pakistan intruders in Kargil, 1999.

Chhoti Dargah Amber Shekhana Biharsharif.

M. Chhoti Dargah - According to the localites this is a haunted place where the common people hesitate to visit. Once in my life I also visited there, what I witnessed further I did not intend to go there. The moselum stood for a furious Baba,Jalali Baba is visited frequently by  the people from distant locations of India and different states  who sought relief from the obsession of evil souls.

N.Sant Baba Ashram : Very far from the town nearby the extended green fields nearby the locality of Biharsharif railway station there remains an ashram of Sant Baba who has been a locally known saint. People have ample faith in baba and his ashram and bow their heads to the samadhi of Baba.

River front area near Panchane river : collage Vidisha.

O.River Front - Like other cities as Lucknow and Patna there is an ambitious plan from the Government of Bihar to create a natural river front area outside the city around the Panchane river where boating will be available for the outgoing tourists in a man made but natural lake.

 
Dr. Madhup Raman
Free Lance Cartoonist,Blogger & Vlogger.

Sources : Travelling,interviews,internet and studies of the books.